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Deborah Lou Turbeville生於1932年11月6日,Stoneham, Massachusetts州;移居紐約,曾在知名設計師Claire McCardell旗下擔任助理及樣品模特兒,爾後,她在Harper’s Bazaar 和 Mademoiselle得到編輯的職位。60年代她開始自己拍攝照片,在1966年她報名了一個由Richard Avedon和藝術指導Marvin Israel授課為期六個月的工作坊課程,奠定了她往後攝影生涯的基礎。
女人眼中的女人,不是徒有女性性徵的性感尤物,笑臉空洞的取悅著男性;她更有自己的個性與思想,時而多愁善感時而低頭不語,舉手投足都散發著知性氣味。
透過攝影師的調配,她給了畫面中每個人一個獨有的角色,講述著自己的故事,沉浸在自己的情緒,專注於己身抑或抽離現實,人與人之間的聚散若有似無的關係,更增添了畫面的敘事性。極度的人文主義攝影風格跳脫出過往以衣服細節、妝髮飾品為主的時尚攝影。
Deborah擅長反向操弄女性,諸如刮扯、撕裂、揮灑塵埃等使憂傷氛圍勾出強烈的頹廢氣息;她使用褪色色調,黑白與浪漫的烏賊色感,及過度曝光的印刷效果使畫面增添神秘光感。對觀者而言,她的作品總是如夢似幻、有著多愁善感的浪漫,畫面中的女性天見由憐─她們是誰?為何她們如此悲傷?
超越現實的死亡意味令人哀傷,極度浪漫的結局終將是場悲劇,受苦的病態身軀及虛弱面容逐漸轉化為當代時尚的主流符號,大大的改寫時尚的語彙及內涵,遺留給後人的是,完美闡述幽暗又夢幻的「絕 對 唯 美」
Deborah在1977年時代雜誌訪問中說道,”我不否認我設計了場景構圖,一個女人不僅僅只是坐在那裏,而是演活了畫面中的角色,穿著怎樣又何妨?我開啟了女性從未被探索的隱私空間。”頹廢的空間帶出寂寞失落的虛空,衰敗死亡勾起人們對時間的流逝傷感,及輝煌不再。
“時尚,不只是過期的雜誌讀過即丟,更是千古流傳的一門藝術。”
2014年10月25日,在曼哈頓St. Luke’s-Roosevelt 醫院中心逝世,死於肺癌,享年81歲。
评论 1 :
是凉子啊